Saturday, April 28, 2012

A good meal, A good day.

*NOTE: I've received negative feedback in regards to this post. I would like to clarify that this is not meant to suggest that the food culture of the US is superior other than it is the food I grew up with. Food is a matter of taste and the food here isn't necessarily to mine. I don't shy away from the words that follow, but please know that I respect that Paraguayans love their food and may dislike mine. I have posted the negative feed back and my response in the comments section. I think it best illustrates the legitimate gripes with this posts, and maybe fills in some of the gaps I left out when writing the following.*

I often complain about Paraguayan food. It's not my favorite food culture in the world. To be honest, no matter the culture, unless Jamon Serrano is a staple in the diet, it's not my favorite.
Eaten at every meal.
A weird diet, heavily centered on meat and starch, I find Paraguayan food bland and greasy.  Chipa guazu and Sopa Paraguaya are the primary traditional breads. They're the same fucking thing! And who the hell calls bread "Paraguayan soup?" They have soup here. It contains giant hunks of meat that you must gnaw at, because cutting tough meat inside a bowl of soup is really fucking difficult. Also, the pasta is gummy, and how one can love mandioca as dearly as Paraguayans do is beside me.  And then there was the whole pig nose incident, among other offenses.
Chipa Guazu, I think

Sopa Paraguaya, Maybe










 Yet we return to that recurring theme in my Peace Corps Service. Just when I think I can't take it any more, Paraguay throws me a bone.

Today, a trip to the neighbors yielded me this precious bounty of fruit picked straight from their yard.
NOM NOM NOM
That avocado is the size of my face! Can you imagine anything more wonderful? You doubt? That's a grapefruit next to it, not an orange. Seriously. I have absolutely no idea what what that pointy fruit is, but it was delicious even with its mucus-y texture. 

Tonight, I feast. After a few too many meals dominated by rice, I take my ENORMOUS avocado, add a little juice from those fresh picked lemons, a tomato and onion and it's guacamole night. (No guacamole isn't a Paraguayan food. More on that later.)

While eating straight guacamole would not be the least healthy, nor least delicious meal I've eaten here in Paraguay, I made up some lentils and tortillas, and proceeded to stuff my face. It looked something like this:
LAY OFF ME I'M STARVING!

This is not the first, nor the last time I've been humbled by Paraguay. Right as I'm about to collapse in a heap of frustration from the daily battles of being a stranger in a strange place, Paraguay, its culture, and its people always seem to show me the way. I will never love the food in Paraguay, but how awesome is the normalcy of having several different fruit trees in your yard? They never sell avocado here, because no one would buy it. Why would you, when you can walk down the street and get it for free from your neighbors?

While my own attempts to start a vegetable garden got waylaid by a two week vacation during the worst drought in decades, I love that during the right season I can have incredibly fresh food at my finger tips. My host family literally is begging me to take avocados off there hands. There is simply too much to go around. And as any good Peace Corps Volunteer, I'm  here to help. ;-)

So while tonight's dinner did not lead to some revelation in the wonders of Paraguayan cooking, my spirits are lifted, and I live to fight another day.

I must say, one of my favorite parts of guacamole in Paraguay is serving guacamole to Paraguayans. Here avocado is to be served with milk and sugar. It's good, but clearly we all know that avocado was intended by God and Nature to go on sandwiches. So to make up some guac, or even suggest that avocado is to be eaten in a savory way, with salt no less, is absolutely mind blowing. Paraguayans don't often experiment with food. Certain foods are savory. Others are sweet, and there is no mixing those categories. I blame this lack of experimentation combined with generations of isolation to be at fault for such a narrow view of food here. It really is a shame, because there is so much good stuff to work with.

I don't hate all Paraguayan food. It's almost San Juan season, and that means Mbeju and cocido. They are my favorite Paraguayan treats, and there is nothing better as we enter winter. I know that you have no idea what those are, or maybe even how to say them, but I'll make sure to show you. They are just too delicious to miss out.

So don't worry Dad, I'm eating just fine. Although you are always welcome to send me a little a something.

7 comments:

  1. who the hell eats avo with sugar???

    i mean seriously, WTF is that shit?

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  2. Commentor: Wow! bland and greasy food! of course in the US there is not a hint of greasy, bland, overcooked,choked with preservatives, hormones and who knows what else type of foods or rather shall we say consumed widely on a daily basis through out the country; examples can be given ad nauseam; from the all popular big mac to the holiday's fares of roast beefs or pork roasts swimming in grease. Just because it comes in a prettier package doesn't mean it is essentially different; grease is grease!I reckon United Statetian (note I am not using "Americans"for obvious reasons)prefers pretty packaged that hides the rubbish that is consumed every day; i.e. read the list of ingredients say on asimple mac and cheese! rampant obesity everywhere; I don't know where you are from in the States, but have you knowledge or seen the people in the Midwest, the South and quite frankly in most of the country? perhaps the Peace Corp should consider to look inward and send you all wise,all knowing,all superior across you own land, starting oh let's say; Missisipi, Arkansas, Alabama, the Hillbilly's bastions around the Ozarks, Kentucky and let's not forget Georgia, Tenessee and so on. I am fully aware that I am not an erudite as you are in the "Lingua Britanica" and this full of run on sentences so please do not condescend that either. Yes, I am Paraguayan if you have not figure it out by now, and I take exception in your quips and your air of superiority that you articulate so well. I must say however that I prefer mandioca, the "greasy food" that you so detest ANYTIME over any american food, which by the way is not exactly gourmet but laced of acutrements cited prior. You are entitled and free to express and expound your opinions, rest assure however that somebody might just stumble upon them, take offense and retort/rebut unfair comments.

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    1. Hey there. This is the author of that post and here is my response to your comment.

      You are 100% correct.

      American food is often detestable, regardless of region, yet so many of us love it dearly. I know that a good ol' super processed ball park hot dog with neon green relish is a favorite of mine. American food, and the American food culture is lacking in many ways. An appreciation of freshness and home made-ness, (Is that a word?), being central to that problem. These are two things that Paraguay is very good at and that we could take a lesson from.

      The food in Paraguay isn't objectively bad. It's just not to my taste. It sounds like much of American food isn't to yours. That's ok.

      From what I gather, you are living in the states or at least have traveled extensively. I'm sure at one moment during your time outside of Paraguay, you just really wanted some guiso, or mandioca, or any beloved Paraguayan staple. No matter how delicious the American meal in front of you, it just wasn't home. That's how I felt leading up to writing that post.

      The point of the post was not to create a hierarchy of food cultures, placing America atop Paraguay, but rather try to convey the the emotion that comes when in a strange place away from the beloved foods of home. If you think I did that in-artfully, then I failed as a writer and a story teller.

      I had no intention to offend anyone. But just as you have the right to be offended, I have the right to stand by sentiments. I don't like the food here that much. Sorry, but I don't. I don't have to. Just because the US has invented some pretty gross stuff isn't going to change that either. But neither of us have to love the food from each others' culture. We just have to try it, give it a chance.

      I hope that this one post hasn't given you a terrible opinion of the Peace Corps as a whole. I am merely one volunteer. Also my distaste for the food doesn't reflect on my opinion of Paraguay as a whole. Please know I love Paraguay. I am having the time of my life exploring this country, culture and getting to know the people who live here.

      Finally, we can agree that Terere is maybe one of the greatest inventions of all time. I don't think i could have gotten through this past summer with out it.

      Thanks for reading,

      Taylor

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  3. I agree with you. Different people have different tastes. I am a big fan of Chinese food but not so much Indian food. It depends on your taste buds but it is definitely good to try different foods.

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  4. I've taught many of my American friends that I believe avocado was meant by the Heavens and creator of the Universe to be eaten with sugar... and definitely not on sandwiches. So I guess it's all about the perspective. (Sidenote: I had an avocado tree in my house. We used to get mad at IT because its fruits were so big they'd fall on the roof tiles and break them... I used to also go around the block collecting Mangoes into a huge garbage bag - from the streets - and get so many mangoes we used to not just eat it fresh but also make juice, ice cream, and everything else you could think of).

    Now, loving Mandioca, Sopa Paraguay, Mbeyu, Chipa Guazu, and all the other foods is a matter of heart, not just stomach. When you grow up eating something, it becomes synonymous with home, and I'm sure you'd expect me to say then that home is where the heart is and so there you go! hahaha. You may not be able to detect a difference between chipa guazu and sopa paraguay, but my palate for sure craves one over the other at certain times and occasions (in fact, I love chipa guazu but don't like sopa paraguay nearly as much - one is made from fresh corn and the other with corn flour). In the same way that many Americans think all Mexican food is the same exact ingredients re-shuffled and served in different ways, I know my Mexican friends crave specific foods depending on their crave at that moment. It just isn't all the same. It's like telling French people that some of those cheeses that are barely distinguishable are in fact, just the same. They can taste the subtle differences -- the textures, the smells, whatever it is.

    At any rate, I appreciate your candidness, and like that you are able to see the positive even where it's hard to find.

    Oh and Oliver: Most of my friends said the same thing and had the same reaction. Then they tried it and looked at me like a child who'd been depraved their whole lives! It's quite incredible. No need for milk, just sprinkle sugar and mash. Oh and I'll assume you've never had avocado ice cream or mousse -- You know not what you're missing!!

    -Tanya
    (Paraguayan-born now American citizen)
    Knowsylatina@gmail.com
    @KnowsyLatina

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    1. Thanks for your comment Tanya. You're right food is often a matter or heart, and that's what this post was about.

      I do technically know the difference between sopa and Chipa guazu. I've made them with my host family. However, they are still not my favorite. MBeyu is my favorite. Now and always.

      Thanks again for the read. Always great to get different perspectives.

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  5. Che.. y nunca probaste el asado???... parece que te morfaste tantas porongas que no saboreás las delicias que te ofrece mi pais... seguro que comés un super bife de rabadilla o lomito simpre, o un super asado, costilla, vacio, tapa cuadril, chorizos... no se que carajó tragás... si se te vé mas gorda que una cerda.

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